June 22, 2010

Scared Peaches Again

Gery U starting the last pitch of Scared Peaches on the Air Voyage Wall.

The problem with talking about plans is that eventually, you might feel obliged to turn the talk in to action. So after telling various climbing partners that I wanted to try The Full Scared Peaches no less than a bazillion times, I finally gave it a burn over the weekend. The pitch is about 40 meters long and I've heard it gets a grade of 5.12c. The first half of the route is one of the most classic crack climbs on the planet and checks in at about 5.12a. When this is linked into the upper pitch, it is unquestionably the best pitch in the world! Hahaha. Ok, maybe not the best pitch in the world but close!

This past Sunday, Gery U and I went to check it out. After climbing the first pitch of Air Voyage followed by the upper pitch of Peaches, we gave the route a top rope burn. Gery then dispatched the thing like it was 5.8 while I managed to scream TAKE! right below the top. Truth be told, the route was so good I didn't want to send.


Gery lowering from the top pitch of Scared Peaches.


Shelly N and Sarah F on Mr Rogers.


I think Shelly has done the climbing model thing before.


Andrea E making the stretch across to the start of Peaches. This can be desperate if you are under 5 ft 6.


Stretchy pants recommended.

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