October 04, 2010

East End Boys

Lots of air beneath Josh's feet on the 5.11a fifth pitch of Yamnuska's East End Boys.

Finally got on Yamnuska's East End Boys (5.12a, 7 pitches) over the weekend. Climbed with Josh Lavigne of Alpine Summits fame and both felt this to be one of the most enjoyable routes we'd done on the iconic stone. East End Boys is mostly a trad / crack line with a few sections of high quality sport climbing. We brought a double rack up to #3 Camalot and a single #4 Camalot. In hindsight, we both felt this to be excessive and agreed that a single rack in the smaller sizes would have been okay.

Josh L following the 5.10a first pitch.

Top of the 1st pitch.

Following the short 11c second pitch. Note the tongue. Josh Lavigne photo.

Looking down at Josh as he moves through the 12a boulder problem crux on pitch 3. From the belay, you can basically clip 3 bolts. This eliminates any fear factor and makes it quite an onsightable pitch for cowards like myself.

Josh finds following to be extremely boring and often falls asleep when he's not on the sharp end.

Starting the 11c fourth pitch.

SFU. The route goes straight up through the obvious roof.

Following the awesome cracks on pitch 4. Josh Lavigne photo.

Josh could not bear the thought of spending any more time at the hanging roof belay and insisted on taking the roof pitch.

Following the final 10c pitch to the top. Josh Lavigne photo.

Cumbre.

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