October 18, 2010

Climbing Mt. Aberdeen

The slippery ice tongue on the North Glacier of Aberdeen.

Got out for a beautiful day on Aberdeen yesterday with Kent M from Calgary. 

We left the Lake Louise parking lot at 5:45 am under cold, clear skies. Three hours later, with temps dipping down to -15c, we started up the route's notorious ice tongue. I've climbed this with a single ice axe in the past, but the recent string of cold days has turned this feature into slightly more than a casual romp, and I was glad to have a set of proper climbing tools. We topped out under a perfectly still sky and were treated to one of the best views in the Canadian Rockies featuring: The North Face of Temple, Deltaform, Lefroy, Victoria, The Mitre, Hado, Collier, Popes, Hector, and Hungabee.

After yesterday's mountain romp, I won't feel too guilty putting in a few days of steep limestone tugging at the Lookout!

The approach to Aberdeen. The obvious V-shaped groove in the background is Surprise Pass - one of my favorite short ski tours in the Rockies.

Looking up at Mt. Aberdeen.

Climbing the ice tongue.

Still climbing the ice tongue.

Nearing the summit of Aberdeen. The North Face of Temple in the background.

The summit ridge.

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