August 19, 2013
Nearing the summit of Mt. Edith Cavell via the East Ridge. Sara H photo.
On Aug 11, Sara H and I drove up to Jasper through heavy rain, with hopes of climbing the East Ridge of Edith Cavell. Sara had tried the route a few times previously, but had been shut down by bad weather, road closures or massive chunks of falling glacier. So it seemed about right that this attempt would also meet an early demise. But when we left the car at 4:30 the next morning, the only things in the sky were stars and streaks of light from the Perseid Meteor Shower. Still, thunder showers were expected to roll in around noon so we were optimistic that we wouldn't have to climb the entire mountain. But if there's one thing that seems consistent in the grand scheme of the universe, it's the unwritten law that states something about things happening when you least expect them to.
A fitting start to the day. I opted to do the climb in approach shoes because my boots were aggravating my ankles. This worked pretty well and saved my feet on the long walk out.
Nice weather on the lower half of the ridge.
Cool light and clouds to the east. Sara H Photo.
Around 8 am, we took a break on the flat ridge splitting the lower and upper halves of the peak. The weather was threatening so we decided to wait for a bit and see what would happen. Eventually, the clouds split, the sun came out and we continued up. Sara H Photo.
Standing below the upper ridge. This part is steeper than the lower half of the route but doesn't get any harder than 5.3. And as many people have said, the route might have the best quality rock of any 11,000 ft+ mountain in the Canadian Rockies.
We brought crampons and light axes but could have gotten away without either. Sara H Photo.
Great stone. Sara H Photo.
Having a time above the North Face.
Walking the summit ridge. Since we carried the stuff up,we decided to put the ice axes and crampons to use.
Using Sara as a crutch to stand up straight.
For better or worse, we opted to descend the long West Ridge. For anybody taking this option, it is really beneficial to head down to the Sorrow - Edith Cavell Col proper before bashing down the scree covered bowl. And don't stray too far lookers right in the photo or you'll get nice and cliffed out. It's worth taking the time to make sure you are on a fairly well traveled path the whole way down.
The East Ridge skyline and the North Face from the road.
In the end, the climb took 12.5 hours r/t. We brought a 60 meter, 8mm rope and used it a few times on the upper ridge. Three Camalots from 0.5 - 1 seemed fine along with 4 - 5 draws.
August 05, 2013
Kim J riding the 17 km road to the start of the trail. The road is currently closed to vehicle traffic because of damage from the floods - which means no car shuttle for lazy riders. The trail starts on the riders left at approx km 19. It then climbs steeply over rocks and roots for a while before levelling out on the exposed ridge. In total, the ride is about 35 km and took about 5 hours with a long break to let the Trans Rockies Racers go through.
It's hard to believe that it's already August. In some ways, I'm glad that the time is moving quickly because it means I've had more time to mend. Since I've been entirely focused on the healing process this summer, I've gotten back in to a few activities that I haven't done in a while. One of these activities is mountain biking and it's contributed more to my recovery than anything else. Back in high school, I used to spend all my free time ripping around the east coast trails. But then I discovered climbing, and biking took a back seat. Like flying, one of the great things about biking is that you don't need a partner. Plus, it's been a great way to keep the lungs in check while working on the atrophied leg muscles. And the feeling of cruising through the tight single track reminds me of skimming the trees on those smooth early morning flights from any given launch. But maybe more than anything else, biking has taken me to parts of the big back yard that I've never been. And at the end of the day, the activity itself often takes a back seat to getting out and exploring new places.
Cruising along Jumping Pound Ridge in Kananaskis Country.
Riding with Moose Mountain in the distance.
Kim J ripping the backyard High Line.
An impromptu creek crossing post flood.