January 28, 2016

Fall and Winter Climbing at the Red and Potrero Chico


Margot's highly evolved fingernails actually change color depending on her mood. Here she is en-route to demolishing an honest-to-god Mexican Burger. 

Over the past few months, Margot and I made a few short trips to some classic sport climbing destinations. Making use of some gaps in the schedule, we were able to pull off two two-week trips to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky and Potrero Chico in Mexico. We kept the trips as low-budget as possible while still maintaining a good sense of hygiene. In the Red, this meant avoiding the feral pit of Miguel's and spending an extra $3 / night to camp at the ever pastoral Lago Lindas. In Potrero Chico, it meant camping amongst the XMAS hordes at La Posada. Who says that alpine climbers are the only ones who suffer?


This is what suffering for $7 / night looks like in Potrero Chico... 


And this is what $5 / night will get you at Lago Lindas in Kentucky. 


Just because you're in Mexico doesn't mean you can't celebrate the spirit of the Lord!


My favorite climbing trips are ones where I can walk everywhere. In Potrero, the camping is only minutes away from the climbing and there are numerous places to rehydrate after a sweaty day at the crags. 


Classic fall day climbing at the Red River Gorge.


Tracy W just givner in fading light at Muir Valley.


Onsighting is a healthy mix of luck, intuition and staying power. Or so I'm told. This was my hardest flash of the trip, a soft 12C at the Red called Belly of the Beast. It was a real surprise after falling off all the 5.11 warm-ups. Thanks Christina B for the photo!


Climbing Wildfire at the Curbside crag. Thanks Christina B for the photo and Jeff for the beta.


Our mountain of gak in Mexico included: blankets, pillows, 2 tents (one for gear and one for us), tons of snacks and coffee, lavish ground pads and a newly purchased ARMAID


Red nails mean: "I'm working while you're taking photos."


Preparing for a solid rogering at the Surf Bowl, Potrero Chico.


Day 1 and already things are getting loose.


I managed to send Surfer Rosa on the last burn of 2015 and avoided taking this whipper for the umpteenth time.

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